Post by hecklercn on Mar 8, 2007 12:54:08 GMT 7
SWITCHBACKS
A different technique you may not be using, but should
INTRODUCTION
With a little practice most riders can manage the switchback or two that come along on many trails. Start out wide, control your speed, cut across the apex of the turn and finish wide.
But what about that really tight switchback with loose terrain or the really steep one with the big drop if you overshoot the exit? Those are the ones that most riders won’t even attempt.
REALLY TIGHT SWITCHBACKS
This is a technique that I learned from a good friend, Doug Gormley, who is a successful Semi-Pro DH racer and the best technical rider I have ridden with. A couple of years ago we were riding some very rocky and rather exposed terrain with a number of risky switchbacks that I was really struggling with and Doug was cleaning with ease. I sucked up my pride and asked what the secret is. This is what Doug told me.
1. Generally you want to go from the widest starting point to just across the apex, and finish at the widest exit. This is a typical turning path except when there is a berm to be used or some trail obstruction to go around.
2. Here's where it gets different. Keep your pedals level with the outside foot in the back position and both feet on the pedals. Keep the bike as vertical as possible (or even leaning out of the turn) and move only your body into the turn. To help with this, the underside of your outside knee should be resting on the top of the saddle. Steer with both hands.
3. Effectively what you are doing is making your body (your heaviest mass) the fulcrum/pivot for your bike to go around. This allows your bike to take the largest arc possible, very important on really tight turns, while minimizing the risk of highsiding off the trail. Also by allowing you to turn without leaning the bike in, you still have maximum traction for using the brakes and making steering adjustments during the turn.
4. Some turns are so tight that may even have to lower your inside pedal, exact opposite of normal good turning, to get your body even farther to the inside of the turn. This may also be necessary to get your outside knee over the saddle if you have your seat at XC height.
This is confusing and the first few times you try it you will feel very committed and at risk, but it works. I highly recommend practicing the technique on a flat road where the risk is minimal.
A different technique you may not be using, but should
INTRODUCTION
With a little practice most riders can manage the switchback or two that come along on many trails. Start out wide, control your speed, cut across the apex of the turn and finish wide.
But what about that really tight switchback with loose terrain or the really steep one with the big drop if you overshoot the exit? Those are the ones that most riders won’t even attempt.
REALLY TIGHT SWITCHBACKS
This is a technique that I learned from a good friend, Doug Gormley, who is a successful Semi-Pro DH racer and the best technical rider I have ridden with. A couple of years ago we were riding some very rocky and rather exposed terrain with a number of risky switchbacks that I was really struggling with and Doug was cleaning with ease. I sucked up my pride and asked what the secret is. This is what Doug told me.
1. Generally you want to go from the widest starting point to just across the apex, and finish at the widest exit. This is a typical turning path except when there is a berm to be used or some trail obstruction to go around.
2. Here's where it gets different. Keep your pedals level with the outside foot in the back position and both feet on the pedals. Keep the bike as vertical as possible (or even leaning out of the turn) and move only your body into the turn. To help with this, the underside of your outside knee should be resting on the top of the saddle. Steer with both hands.
3. Effectively what you are doing is making your body (your heaviest mass) the fulcrum/pivot for your bike to go around. This allows your bike to take the largest arc possible, very important on really tight turns, while minimizing the risk of highsiding off the trail. Also by allowing you to turn without leaning the bike in, you still have maximum traction for using the brakes and making steering adjustments during the turn.
4. Some turns are so tight that may even have to lower your inside pedal, exact opposite of normal good turning, to get your body even farther to the inside of the turn. This may also be necessary to get your outside knee over the saddle if you have your seat at XC height.
This is confusing and the first few times you try it you will feel very committed and at risk, but it works. I highly recommend practicing the technique on a flat road where the risk is minimal.